Understanding what goes into a fragrance can make wearing it an even more joyful experience
It’s both sensual and special, yet people often judge a scent by a quick spritz in a store where their olfactory system is already overloaded. What if we took the time to do some research first – not into how to get the best deal on a chosen fragrance but into its scientific make-up? It might sound scary, but fear not, the fundamentals are pretty simple. It all starts before you even pick up a bottle.
The market, of course, is awash with brands, from the designer to the niche, so it can feel overwhelming to know where to look or how to develop your understanding of fragrance. To get beyond this, strip it back to basics by using a perfume wheel (see above). The most famous, produced by Michael Edwards, breaks down the main categories of scent and outlines the typical aromas associated with each one. From there, consider how you want to commit to a fragrance.
Perfumer Stephen Nilsen, who works with the Fragrance Foundation UK, the global authority for the fragrance industry, and Givaudan, says: ‘Some people find their signature fragrance and wear that all their life, but others think of it more like fashion. The seasons change and so do their fragrances.’ Either way is fine. It’s about personal preference, like much in perfumery.
Notes on origin and longevity
Interestingly, a study by online fragrance and beauty store Perfume Direct found different types of scents were more popular in particular regions, suggesting people opt for similar notes to those around them. Psychologist Donna Dawson calls this fragrance familiarity. ‘Some scents are universally attractive, such as vanilla, which is often associated with many people’s first food (breast milk), and flowers, which can help to ease depression.’ With this in mind, it might be worth questioning the origin of your preferences and if it’s time to explore a wider range of categories.
If you like something floral, for example, you could move a fraction around the perfume wheel to a greener scent. The main thing to understand is that not all notes have the same longevity or sillage, which is the trail a perfume leaves behind in the air. They’re not all made equal and the way they’re combined will affect their performance. As a general rule, fresh and fruity notes don’t last too long on the skin when compared with a woody or resin note.
But that’s not to say a fresh scent isn’t worthwhile. Stephen explains, for example, how some people ‘love the gesture’ of applying and using fragrance as a pick-me-up. And, of course, there are different scents for different times. You might want a gentle one for the workplace and a heavier one for social events.
Longevity is also determined by the size and structure of a fragrance’s molecules and while that can’t be changed, note performance can be boosted by manipulating the way they work with the skin. Stephen says the trick is body lotion because ‘the moisture in it will help hold the molecules on the skin for a longer time’. Layering lighter fragrances with heavier ones can have a similar effect.
Another option is to upgrade from an eau de toilette to an eau de parfum, but keep in mind that the scent won’t be exactly the same. Stephen uses the analogy of music to explain why: ‘If you have your stereo on and you turn the volume up, [the music] starts distorting. If you have an equaliser, you can lower the base notes and it will sound better. We can do that with a perfume too. Sometimes in a concentration, the base notes or the top notes might be too intense. We’ll rebalance those to make them more wearable.’ Learning which ones suit your tastes and skin chemistry takes trial and error, but the more notes that you smell and discover, the easier it will become to recognise good scent options.
For many, fragrance is about more than vanity. Swiss company Givaudan found that nine in 10 wearers believed fragrance was important for their wellbeing. This resonates with 46-year-old Amanda Lewis, for whom it has long been a personal love. Over time she’s learned to understand it better, partly for her collector mindset (she tests and collects as a hobby), but also for her mental health. As a child, Amanda was surrounded by a scent-wearing family and grew up with an interest in fragrance, but it was only as an adult that she discovered notes. ‘I remember thinking “I like this” and “I like that” but I didn’t have much awareness of what the perfume consisted of,’ she says, adding that she gained more information from virtual community groups and forums.
An amber scent fan, she continues: ‘Fragrance is therapeutic. I need a mood lifter. I suffer with depression and I’ve found that collecting fragrances helps connect my senses and can set my mood for the day. It’s something positive I do for me.’ Depending on the day and the feeling she wants to capture, Amanda will opt for a different scent. On days that she describes as “lower”, she’ll choose a lighter rose or chypre over her favourite dark rose scent, or opt for cologne over a parfum, so the smell projects less intensely.
Notes on life and love
For many people, fragrance can also carry significant sentimental value, something that Amanda shares. ‘As a child, my connection to my grandmother was a particular perfume bottle, so whenever I see it – even though I hated the smell when I was little – I can appreciate it. It connects me to history and happy times in my life.’ Psychologist Donna explains that the smell sense connects to ‘the brain’s limbic system, which governs emotions and memories.
This is why a particular smell can take us right back to a time, place, and emotion.’ Building from that, fragrance has the power to create a persona for the wearer. Whether you realise it or not, those close to you will likely associate you with your scent, just as you naturally do with others. Amanda feels this strongly towards the women who first introduced her to the world of perfume. ‘When I looked at my grandmas they were so beautiful to me. They were everything I wanted to be… and the perfume just rounded it all off.’
NATURAL VS SYNTHETIC
This is another factor to consider when choosing a scent. Natural ones tend to comprise only essential oils, which might be combined with soy or beeswax to create a solid form. Synthetics, on the other hand, use artificial compounds and ingredients. Most perfumes fall into the second category. Stephen says synthetics are less labour intensive in that they are developed in a laboratory, and adds that they do not require land to be farmed. When perfumers do use natural ingredients, he says they have a responsibility to work with the communities at the source. In most cases, he says, perfumers ‘use naturals where they have to, when there isn’t a synthetic alternative.’ Both methods aff ect the environment in diff erent ways, plus there are the additional burdens of transport, distribution, and packaging that come with the creation of any product. Some companies will also have more robust environmental policies in place and enforce them appropriately. The key is to do your homework. Research what’s in your desired scent (this is particularly useful for those with allergies), how it’s gathered and produced, and the environmental practices and record of the manufacturer.
DISCOVER YOUR TYPE
In simple terms, perfumes are made from mixing perfume oil with alcohol. The percentage of oil used will affect the strength. Pure perfume oil can be purchased, though it’s a rare commodity. Perfumer Stephen explains the common fragrance formulations (from strongest to weakest, though there are exceptions):
- PERFUME. Strong and long-lasting, as oil makes up around percent or more of the liquid. These formulations are more expensive to allow for the richer concentration.
- EAU DE PARFUM. Slightly less intense at – percent oil. They still have good sillage and require fewer sprays per use.
- EAU DE TOILETTE. Less concentrated at around – percent. They have a softer performance that doesn’t travel as far from the skin.
- COLOGNE. Often delicate on the nose but they evaporate quickly as they contain only seven percent oil. They suit people who enjoy a subtle scent or who like to spritz liberally.
CHOOSE YOUR NOTES
Some people view the notes found in a fragrance as akin to the ingredients used in a dish. Paying attention to them will help to explain why you like certain scents. For example, you might notice that many of your favourites feature tuberose while those you dislike have patchouli. They’re listed in three layers: top, heart, and base. Imagine peeling an onion, with each layer revealing more complexity to the scent.
- TOP NOTES. The initial smell, it vanishes quickest, as they tend to be ingredients that have a lighter molecular weight. This means they cling to the skin for less time.
- HEART NOTES. Become more apparent as the top notes soften. They should be pronounced for a large portion of the scent’s wear time
- BASE NOTES. What’s left of the scent as the fragrance fades. Usually heavier molecules, they better adhere to the skin and last longest.
When testing a perfume let it sit on the skin for a while so you can see how the smell develops. The initial few seconds won’t reflect the true scent or reveal all the notes.
See fragrancesoftheworld.com for more details about Michael Edwards’s wheel and perfume classifications.
