
Turkish chef Betül Tunç shares her take on karpatka – a nostalgic, cream-filled choux dessert. Elegant and indulgent, this beautifully layered treat is perfect to enjoy in any season.
SERVES 10-12
Named for the Carpathian Mountains, it’s a delectable pastry that’s similar to a giant éclair cake but with an ice cream-like twist owing to a generous dollop of butter in the cream. My personal favourite way to devour karpatka is drizzled with a bit of chocolate sauce. My husband, on the other hand, likes a plateful of fruit alongside. Whatever your preference, be it fruity or chocolaty, this dessert delivers.
Ingredients
For the choux dough
For the Carpathian pastry cream
Assembly
Method
Prepare the choux dough:
- In a medium saucepan, combine the water, milk, sugar, salt, and butter. Bring just to a boil over medium-low heat.
- Remove from the heat and add all the flour at once.
Using a spatula, stir for a few seconds, until well combined, using the back of the spatula to press the mixture against the bottom of the pan and scrape to stir. Immediately return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring, until the texture is smooth and resembles Play-Doh with no visible pockets of flour, 2 to 2 ½ minutes. - Remove from the heat and turn the dough out onto a cold work surface. Let cool for 5 to 7 minutes, flattening with your hands periodically to prevent drying and to aid in the cooling process.
- Transfer the dough to a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, add the eggs one at a time and mix until almost fully incorporated before adding the next egg.
Add the vanilla with the last egg. Continue to mix until smooth, then use a spatula to scrape the sides of the bowl and make sure there are no visible differences in texture. - Fit a large piping bag with a 1 cm round tip. Roll the edges of the bag down and hang it inside a 1-litre bowl or container. Use a spatula to transfer the dough into the piping bag. Pull up the edges of the bag and lay it flat on a work surface. Use a plastic bench scraper on the outside of the bag to push all the dough toward the tip, making sure there are no air pockets in the dough. Then squeeze from the top, pushing the dough just into the tip.
Make the Carpathian pastry cream:
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until fluffy and lightened in colour, 1 to 2 minutes.
Add the cornstarch and continue to whisk, until well combined. - In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, heavy cream, and vanilla bean, and bring almost to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and remove the vanilla bean, squeezing out any liquid or seeds. Whisking constantly, very slowly drizzle ¼ cup of the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture to warm it up slowly. Once fully incorporated, repeat with another ½ cup of the milk mixture. Transfer the warmed egg mixture into the saucepan with the remaining milk while whisking.
- Return the mixture to medium heat, stirring constantly.
Once the mixture just comes to a boil, cook for an additional 40 to 60 seconds while continuing to stir. If it has not thickened, continue to cook for 30 to 40 seconds longer.
Remove from the heat and add the vanilla paste or extract, if using, and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes. - Pour the custard into a medium glass bowl and cover with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap onto the top of the pastry cream to prevent a skin forming. Let cool for 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature and then refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, until well chilled.
- Remove the custard from the fridge and use an electric mixer to whisk until creamy. Add the soft butter and continue to whisk until perfectly smooth. Cover with plastic wrap as before and let rest in the fridge until ready to use.
Assemble the dessert:
- Preheat the oven to 190°C. Place a piece of baking paper in the bottoms of two 23-cm springform pans (see Notes) before closing the sides.
- Make the choux dough and transfer to a piping bag as directed. Pipe half of the dough along the bottom of one of the pans and use a wooden spoon to make sure it is evenly spread. Use the handle of the spoon to gently make a wave pattern over the top of the choux, creating uneven peaks that puff beautifully during baking. Repeat with the second springform pan and remaining choux.
- Just before baking, reduce the oven to 180°C. Bake until golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes.
Turn off the oven and prop the door open.
Allow the choux to cool for 10 to 15 minutes, until the pastry is dried out well. - Place the choux on a cooling rack, carefully removing the sides and bottoms of the springform pans (hold on to one of the sides).
Let cool completely. - With an electric mixer, whisk the chilled pastry cream quickly to make sure it is smooth. Place one of the choux layers on a serving plate. Wrap an acetate collar or baking paper around the circumference of the choux, taping to hold it in place. Close the sides of a springform pan around the collar. Pour the pastry cream over the choux base and spread evenly. Top with the second choux round and press lightly to adhere to the pastry cream. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 5 hours or overnight, until well chilled.
- When ready to serve, in a microwave-safe bowl or medium saucepan, heat the cream until bubbling, just short of a boil. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate chips and salt. Let stand for 4 to 5 minutes, then stir well until smooth.
Let cool to room temperature before using. - Before serving, dust the karpatka with powdered sugar. Slice and serve with a drizzle of chocolate sauce and fresh berries.
Notes:
- If you do not have two springform pans, you can bake one choux round and then the other.
- You can bake the choux in two 20-cm springform pans for a thicker karpatka.
- Take care to whisk the pastry cream well before adding the butter. Make sure the butter is very soft before combining, or you will have little bits of hardened butter in your cream.
- To store, cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days.
This recipe was originally published in the article Turkish Delights in Issue 51 – The Space Between.